Pattern: Bomber Hat

Bomber Hat Here is a simple crochet hat done in ribs! Yup, it is a ribbed hat done using Crochet instead of Knit! I made this for my friend who specifically requested a “crochet hat in black with tight stitches!”. (shrug)

Here’s what I came up with. I made it dark grey instead in a heavy stitch for extra warmth (and also to avoid the “hole-y” ness that normal crochet hats are prone to). I mixed the yarns for added depth and a slight luxe detail without changing the overall personality of the hat. That mixed with the stitch gave it lovely yet subtle unique texture.

Overall it’s a utilitarian Counterstrike/Black Ops inspired look. It came out sportier than I would have liked but I loved the stitch with the yarn mix so I just went with it. It’s on the stiff side, no drape. Dense and thick yet doesn’t really look like it. Great for a guy! The stitch is more intermediate but the hat pattern itself is beginner making it an Advanced Beginner project! It’s a stretchy stitch normally used for cuffs or edges. It fit perfectly!

Bomber Hat

1.5 Balls Red Heart Heathers – Dark Grey (4480) – Medium Worsted Weight [4], 260 yards per ball
2 Balls Lion Brand Collection Baby Alpaca – Silver Grey Heather (152) – Light Weight [3], 146 yards per ball
Crochet Hook Size I9 [5.5mm]
Yarn Needle

Special Stitch:
1×1 Rib Stitch: [fpdc, bpdc] repeat until end
fpdc – Double Crochet into Front Post
bpdc – Double Crochet into Back Post

Size: Approx. 22 inches in circumference. About 9 inches high.

Skill Level: Adv. Beginner

Chain 80
Row 1: Slip Stitch to join round. Ch 2, dc until end of round (into the back “post” of the chain).
Row 2: Sl st into top of chain to join, Ch 2, Rib Stitch until end of round.
Row 3: Sl st into top of chain to join, Ch 2, Rib Stitch until end of round. (Make sure to fpdc into fpdc and bpdc into bpdc as you go.)
Row 4- 19: Repeat Row 3 for 16 rounds. For a total of 18 rounds of Rib Stitch.

Finish Row 1: Sl st into top of chain to join, Ch 2, [Rib Stitch for 12 sts, dec 2] repeat until end of round.
Finish Row 2: Sl st into top of chain to join, Ch 2, [Rib Stitch for 8 sts, dec 2] repeat until end of round.
Finish Row 3: Sl st into top of chain to join, Ch 2, Rib Stitch until end of round.
Finish Row 4: Sl st into top of chain to join, Ch 2, [Rib Stitch for 4 sts, dec 2] repeat until end of round.
Finish Row 5: Sl st into top of chain to join, Ch 2, [Rib Stitch for 2 sts, dec 2] repeat until end of round.
Finish Row 6: Sl st into top of chain to join, Ch 2, Rib Stitch until end of round.
Finish Row 7: Sl st into top of chain to join, Ch 2, Dec every st (or post) until end.
Finish Row 8: Fasten off. Leave long tail. Weave into top stitches and cinch to close. Weave in ends.

The hat is crocheted in the round holding 2 yarns together. From the bottom up to the crown in one continuous piece.

To shape the crown: For a longer pointier top, decrease every other row; For a shorter rounder top, decrease every row.

This makes a pretty stiff knit so it holds its shape well. It’s also a deceptively heavy and thick hat. Great for warmth!

Here is a great video tutorial on how to do a Rib Stitch in Crochet. by Mikey from

The decreases in this pattern are sort of difficult. Follow the stitches when decreasing and always leave an even number of stitches. The Rib Stitch requires a pair of stitches (multiple of 2) to complete. I did “2tog” for the decreases. See below for add’l info.

This Rib Stitch requires a lot of yarn which is why this hat requires over 3 balls of yarn! If you want to pile on the yarn for extra warmth, keep it! If not, Laurie Wheeler from The Crochet Liberation Front suggested the Half Double or even Single Crochet in place of the Double Crochet I used along with the 3tog + sl st technique for a dec 2. I’m trying another one so I will give it a whirl.

You can do rib in fp/bp hdc or sc 🙂 saves yarn. 2) I turn work inside out and do last few rnds in 2tog till end when I do all tog. Or if Too bulky then 3tog ea & slip st.

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24 comments on “Pattern: Bomber Hat

  1. What a great pattern! Your results were great – do you have any photos of the crown? Decreasing rounds is something I’m not very good at yet.

    I think that this will be a great holiday gift for the boys in my family. 🙂 Thanks for posting!

    1. Hi Bailey, YW! Let me see if I can find some. The crown was the hardest part to get “smooth”. The decreasing rounds are not uniform but it still looks polished enough so you can get away with it. –Alice

  2. Really like your crocheted hat. My mom and I always made our crocheted hats starting at the crown (forming a ring of stitches) and working our way around until the bottom. I will try this style.Thanks 🙂
    The scarf is also great. I have used that stitch for baby blankets.Works up great .Cheers !

  3. Hi I love the style of this hat and is exactly what I was looking for but I don’t know how you decrease this particular stitch can someone please tell me – mel x

    1. Hi Mel!

      Yeah the decreases in this hat are tough. But the decrease instructions are right in the pattern! Just follow the pattern under the section labeled “Finish”. Those are actually the decrease rows! Hope that helps.

      There are probably more elegant decreases for this rib but the one I wrote does the trick. If you find a better one please let me know!

      I wished I took better pics of the decreases to illustrate before I gave it away!

      1. Thanks Alice I am making this hat for my dad and I really want to make sure I get it right also I find that some decreases make stuff look a bit Holey and I’d like to avoid doing that – mel x

        1. Hi Mel, Oh, how cute 🙂 Oh ok, the decreases in this version are definitely not holey. They make a “spiral” type pattern at the top as you decrease. It can stand to be more graceful in the design but it’s really not that noticeable.

          Maybe you can try this: Mark the last stitch of your final row before decreasing. Then try the decrease. If you don’t like it, pull it apart until the stitch marker and start over. It’s a quick finish, so you won’t be losing too much time. Then look into a different option for the decreases!

          Good luck on your hat. I’m sure it’ll turn out great!

          1. Thanks for the tip Alice I will try it when I get there. I am currently looking into invisible decrease so if it doesn’t look right I can try that instead – Mel x

  4. Thank you for the pattern! I would like to use a bulky weight yarn (#5), Red Heart Reflective. How much do you think the gauge will change? I am excited to get started lol

    1. Hi Tracy!

      Bulky Weight yarn would be a great substitute. Hmm, gauge is hard to estimate. Also, since it’s a Ribbed Stitch there will be great flexibility and very forgiving.

      I would suggest using your Bulky Weight yarn with the same sized Crochet Hook Size I9 [5.5mm]. The pattern requires knitting by holding 2 yarns together, one Medium Weight and one Light Weight. So it would pretty much equal about a Bulky Weight yarn. It is knitted tight too to give a clean texture and also for warmth.

      Also, love the Red Heart Reflective Yarn too. I never heard of it until now. Love the idea of a yarn with reflective thread woven into it. Great for night time running or cycling. Or just for fun!

  5. This pattern will make a thick and warm hat… if I can figure out how the decrease in stitches works! I’ve tried to follow along but it doesn’t seem to be working out. I may just pull out the last few decrease rows, continue crocheting straight up until I reach the desired length, then thread around the top with tapestry needle and pull the yarn tight to close off the hat. Thanks anyway for sharing.

  6. Hi there, awesome pattern thank you!

    In the finishing section when you say Dec 2. Do you mean skip 2 posts or do you mean decrease over 2 stitches?


    1. Hi Ashley,

      It means make 2 decreases. Since I use the “k2tog” decrease, I do not skip stitches. I knit 2 stitches together using the designated stitch, either fpdc or bpdc. The 2 decreases will be done across 4 stitches (picking up 2 stitches per decrease). Skipping stitches will result in an eyelet that I do not want for this pattern. Hope that helps!

    1. Hi Tamara, Thanks for your comment! The finished size measures about 22″ circumference and 9″ tall. If you’d like to size it to your 10yo, you can measure around his head (where the hat would sit) using a string or tape measure. This would give you an idea of the circumference of his head! If it’s close, I would say no need to modify the size. Since they grow fast and you said he’s big for his age. The hat is ribbed, so it will stretch as needed. And the brim can be folded up.

      If it’s much smaller or if you’d like to get a custom fit, it would require some effort. You’d have to create a 6×6″ swatch (using the 1×1 Rib Stitch and the fpdc/bpdc stitch). Measure this swatch for the number of sts per inch, then multiply that to get the circumference you’d like. Then round down or up to make sure it is an even number of sts. (The 1×1 Rib Stitch requires multiples of 2 I think. I did not note the swatch dimensions or multiples required. For future patterns I will though!) Also, the decreases for this hat aren’t easy. So translating that to a different number of sts could also require some planning!

      If I ever revisit this pattern, I will keep in mind your above question! Thanks, Alice

  7. Hi Alice,
    Thanks so much for a beautiful pattern. I increased my chains to 90 to start because I needed it a little larger. I’m having trouble calculating out the decrease rows now. Do you have advice for how to calculate out the decreases? If you could put the total number of stitches for your pattern at the end of each ‘finish row’, I could probably make it work out! Thanks in advance!

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